Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need A Permit?

Regulations vary by city and even neighborhood. They also change over time. The link below is for Portland and is expected to be updated in 2012:

http://web.multco.us/health/animal-codes

Chickens Not Laying?

Chickens start laying at around 6 months old and will lay for 2-5 years after that. They lay much more in the summer than the winter and, at times, they stop laying all together. This is usually caused by changes in the environment and sometimes by changes in their bodies. Hot weather or very cold weather can cause them to stop as can low light levels. Changes in food or feeding schedules, traumatic events, or moving hens can also stop laying for a short time. Molting, the annual replacement of feathers, will usually cause hens to stop laying for up to 2 months. Going broody (trying to hatch their eggs) will also prevent laying for up to 2 months. Low calcium levels can also affect laying so be sure to supplement their diets with oyster shell. Bottom line: many things can stop or slow laying but they will resume eventually. Use of lights in the coop for a few hours in the AM can keep your hens laying in the winter, but this may come at the expense of some longevity. 

Do I Have a Rooster?

We get asked every day to help customers decide if they have a rooster in their young flock. I first ask about the chick’s age because before about 8 weeks it’s impossible to be sure of anything. Next I tell them that aggressive/bossy behavior, large combs or wattles, body size, tail feathers and stance do not indicate much of anything. Then I tell them about what really matters: saddle feathers. These are the feathers that develop where the lower back meets the base of the tail. In hens they are flat or rounded; in roosters they are pointy at the end. Of course, the best indicator is a “cock-a-doodle-do!” 

NO ROOSTER RELOCATIONS We're sorry, but there will be no rooster relocation for the foreseeable future due to circumstances beyond our control.

Sick Chicks

If your chick is listless or otherwise generally weak we recommend first checking the following environmental factors. If they have bloody or foamy diarrhea or otherwise looks very unhealthy skip right to the treatments section.

Enviromental Factors:

1) Brooder - The heated box housing the chicks needs to be as large as possible to help create warm and cool sides as well as to improve sanitation. The box needs to be at least 2 feet by 3 feet (and ideally 2 feet deep) for 3 chicks. For 4-5 chicks it should be at least 2 feet by 4 feet (and 2’ deep). The heat lamp (red bulb 250 watt) needs to be 2 feet over the litter and far on one side. The food and water should be on the other, cooler side. This is very important!

2) Litter - Use only pine shavings (never cedar) or rice hulls. Nothing else works very well, trust me.

3) Water/Food - Keep water clean by removing debris frequently (2-3 times a day) and completely replace daily. Completely change food every other day.

Treatment:

After reviewing the factors above, if your bird is still sick we now recommend an agressive treatment program consisting of 1 tsp of Sulmet (a antibiotic and anti-protozoan medication) added to a 1 qt. water jar. Change the water and medication every day for 3 full days of treatment.

After the 3 days are over, it’s important to return the chicks’ gut to its normal function. We recommend use of Fertell Nutri-Balancer which contains beneficial bacteria. This is sprinkled over their food like pepper. We sell both the Fertell and the Sulmet at the store.

Sick Adults

Poultry disorders can be anything from simple sniffles to highly contagious diseases. We suggest you check with a vet and/or send samples to your local university veterinary medicine laboratory if you want a confirmed diagnosis, but we can often help you puzzle-out simple matters and offer treatments. We have a limited supply of poultry medications and preventatives. 

What should I be feeding my chicks?

1-12 Weeks:

Feed -Chick feed in mash (unpelleted) or crumble (small, broken pellets) form. Medicated is recommended
Treats - Hardboiled egg yolk that’s been finely chopped, after about 4 weeks lettuce, grains and veggies are OK
Grit (pebbles) - Fine chick grit (#1) in small quantities (sprinkle like pepper on food)

12-20 Weeks:

Feed - ‘Developer’ pellets or mash or 50/50 chick feed and layer
Treats - Any vegetable, greens, or grains. Some meat OK. No fatty foods, garlic/onions, moldy or spoiled foods. Keep treats at less than 30% of diet.
Grit - #1 and/or #2 grit in small quantities

20+ Weeks:

Feed - Layer in the form of mash or pellets
Calcium - Oyster shell (combine about 1 lb with 50 lbs. feed or feed freely in small bowl)
Treats - Any vegetable, greens, or grains. Some meat OK. No fatty foods, garlic/onions, moldy or spoiled foods. Keep treats at less than 30% of diet.
Grit - #2 grit in small quantities