Basic Care of Adult Chickens

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The first priority when raising chickens is to provide for them a secure coop (cozy sleeping and nesting area) and a run (larger, fenced outdoor area). We will go into more detail about coop & run design in a future section on this site, but there are a few basic things to consider.

First, your chickens must be protected from predators. In an urban setting these include racoons, possum, hawks/falcons, and dogs. Cats are not usually a problem after the chick stage. The run should adjoin or encompass the coop and both should be securable while allowing you to access them. The fenced run area should be built with strong fencing material extending 6” below the surface, under the entire area of the run, or flaring out at the sides 1’ (we suggest welded wire instead of chicken wire). The coop must be predator-proof, but also should provide protection from the weather. 

Note: When moving your older chicks outside (after 6-8 weeks), make sure to put them on the sleeping roost and shut the doors to the coop each night. This is important because most young chickens will not know how to go into the coop on their own and may stay outside in the run at night where they are vulnerable. 

There are many designs for coops, but most share a few features. Chickens like to sleep on a perch so coops usually include a 1” or larger dowel for this purpose. A design that allows for easy cleaning (see below) is always a good idea. A nesting box, either inside the coop or attached to an exterior wall, provides a place for the hens to lay their eggs. The chickens will need to access the coop through a door or opening. 12” x 12” is about right. Lastly, consider ventilation. The coop should be roofed and have weather-tight walls, but should also include ventilation near the roof. Be sure to cover the vent with welded wire. 

The coop must have litter, both on the floor and in the nest boxes. We suggest using either pine shavings or rice hulls. Never use straw inside the coop because of its tendency to mildew, mat-together, and introduce mites to the system (straw is OK outside). New litter should be sprinkled over the old litter weekly and the whole thing cleaned-out every 1-2 months. 

Adult chickens need larger feeders and waterers than the chicks. We suggest buying these as soon as they are moved outside (6-8 weeks old). Place the waterer (often called a fountain) on a layer of bricks stacked two high. Hang the feeder 6” off the ground if possible, otherwise put it on bricks as well. The feeder and the waterer should be outside of the coop to prevent cross-contamination with the soiled litter. Place them in a dry area of the run or under a raised coop. 

Let your birds out of the run daily or whenever possible to get exercise and to forage. If this is not possible, provide enrichment activities for them to prevent boredom. These can include such things as adding a bale of straw to the run for them to rip apart. Bringing them fruit or greens to eat is a very good idea, but avoid giving them long blades of grass (unless it’s anchored by roots and growing) as this can cause digestive problems. 

Maintaining health is important. Keep birds well watered and provide shade and a moist patch of soil when it’s hot. Chickens are usually cold-hardy, but you should provide heat in the coop if temperatures drop much below 20 degrees. You can use your old chick heating lamp for this, but be sure to secure it carefully to prevent it from falling and potentially starting a fire. Clip wings to prevent flying clipping only the non-living parts of the flight feathers at the end of the wing. This, as well as dusting for mites (if needed) and other maintenance, is best done at night when the sleepy birds are most docile.